Riga, unlike other capitals of Europe, doesn’t have incredibly much to show for.
Paris is famed for more than just one historic monument, it also boasts incredible art collections and has a yaw dropping architecture. London is arguably the most exciting city in Europe “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London
all that life can afford.”
Milan is the capital of fashion and the pinnacle of all things style! Rome bears an incredible history and other cities in Europe - Berlin, Vienna, Prague, Barcelona and many more - make it to someone’s bucket list for obvious reasons!
The three Baltic countries located in the North part of Eastern Europe are not often on the top of someone’s mind when they think of their Eurotrip.
I am not here to convince you to visit, but it's my story that I want to tell!
The capital of Latvia, Riga, is my home town and I won’t lie – it can be quite a dull, dark and not overly exciting place– after all- I left it as soon as I could, the same way a cork pops out of a warm champagne bottle.
I finished school and I was out in the world, seeking for exciting opportunities and exposing myself to cultural diversity and cheaper, more affordable air-fares, so I could travel further.
I would visit my family at least a few times a year, but my sight was always set on living and settling in one of the World’s capitals. Bigger, bolder, more exciting!
Whenever I was home, I felt like staying would mean ‘settling for less’ so I moved from Riga to London to New York and eventually traveling the World.
However, for the past year (maybe two), I was growing anxious for not having any stability and I was tired of constantly packing and unpacking; then throw in the events of 2020 and I finally gave in – I signed a lease for an apartment; and instead of seeing it as a ‘step backwards’ I looked at it as my step forward.. Time to slow down, re-focus, re-invent.
This is not a story of ‘I traveled the World and realized that my hometown is the best place in the World’ but I have grown to appreciate the things that this city offers,
and it’s a story worth sharing.
For a short historical introduction, I will share a paragraph from Unesco website
(Leaving the facts and numbers to the experts).
Riga was founded as a port town in 1201 and historically Riga was a major center of the Hanseatic League, deriving its prosperity in the 13th–15th centuries from the trade with central and Eastern Europe. The urban fabric of its medieval center reflects this prosperity, though most of the earliest buildings were destroyed by fire or war. Riga became an important economic center in the 19th century, when the suburbs surrounding the medieval town were laid out (source: Unesco).
Culturally, we’re quite like the infamous ‘cold scary Russians’ so depending on your individual experience, when you arrive to Riga, you might not be greeted with a smile and a polite nod.. (Be especially careful from the chain-smoking, leather-vest wearing
old-Mercedes taxi drivers..)
The upside is that we like our personal space and for anyone who comes from a big city, grown tired of having someone’s sweaty armpit in their face on their morning work commute, this is a very refreshing environment.
Once the news of Covid-19 spread across the World and the ‘state of emergency’ rules were in place, the locals seemed quite confused that only 2 m distance is required in the time of this vicious disease spreading.
We’re absolutely ok to multiply that number and keep things to ourselves.
None of that polite American “hey what’s up. We should catch up”. If a Latvian doesn’t want to meet or greet – he or she will cross the street and surely will do so much more (if required) in effort to avoid unnecessary contact!
However, it’s not all so grim.
There is a big contrasts between the generations - those who grew up during an era of surveillance and forced communal lifestyles as part of the Soviet Union, and a younger generation raised in a free country, much more outward looking, exposed to the World
and all its opportunities.
Now, let me introduce you to my city!
The population of Riga is around 700 000.
Riga is relatively small city, so it’s easy to get around and see all the sights, museums and enjoy late lunches in a relaxed atmosphere.
You can take 30-40 min train ride to a nearby beaches for a day-trip, or you can take a couple of days to do a hike along the coast.
The Old town is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There is a highly diverse architecture, and the majority of buildings have the status of a cultural monument. The city's architecture represents various periods - Romanticism, Gothic, Baroque, Classicism, and Modernism.
Enjoy a beautiful view from the top of St Peters Church, visit The House of The Black Heads and enjoy the famous Riga Black Balsam (the spirit that originated in the 18th century and is believed the cure all diseases) at the Black Magic.
You will find a lot of wonderful restaurants serving innovative local food, for quite reasonable prices (compared to other European capitals, here you can have a lovely meal for two, for no more than 60-80 eur)
My top recommendations include Locale , Restaurant 3 and Domini Cane.
If you are looking for a truly authentic experience then try Rozengrals which formerly was an old wine cellar, now a medieval-themed restaurant.
Finally, Riga Old Town is also the epicenter of the party scene - a lot of clubs and bars playing music and selling alcohol until the early hours of the morning.
Just be careful with those strong cocktails and your walk home..
The Old Town of Riga is famous for it’s cobble stone streets, or one could also say - for the girls successfully maneuvering 6inc heels through the streets..
The next morning you will probably need a hearty good meal and strong coffee, so I will write a separate post of where to find the best breakfast and coffee spots in the city!
(swipe to see more photos)
Riga has many beautiful parks which makes summer the best time to visit. You can easily find undisturbed spot on a park bench or lay in the grass to recharge your energy for late night party. (Keep in mind- having an open alcohol bottle is not legally permitted, so if you do want to enjoy a beer- be careful/don’t flaunt it around) .
If it’s your first time in the Baltics, then visiting the Museum of the Occupation is a must! Little glimpse of the history might help you to understand Latvian behavior better.. Perhaps you will even be able to justify some of those angry older ladies that you encountered during your visit. If you are a ‘museum junkie’ then here is a comprehensive list of all the best museums.
However, some of the best artwork you will find in the streets of the city. Riga has been recognized to have the finest collection of art nouveau buildings in all of Europe. Look up and keep your eyes peeled at the stunning architecture. The most famous Alberta Street!
We also have a great Opera house and depending on when you visit, there are always different events taking place. I haven’t been around enough to actually experience many things, but I am more than happy to help you organize your visit
making sure you don’t miss anything!
We would start in the Riga Central Market (the largest market in Europe) which is somewhat a phenomenon, in it's own way. It also happens to be the largest market in Europe, but it's not the size that will ensure a lasting impression.
Observing the everyday life of the locals will give you a 'good taste' of Latvian culture.
Ideally, I would recommend visiting Riga in late spring, summer and early autumn, just like any other city – it looks best when dressed in sunshine and green!
Because of the geographical location – summer days in Latvia are very long – and if the food is disappointing, the party too loud and everything else fails, at least you will experience the sun rising before 5 am and setting after 10pm
(the average length of the day in June and July is 17-17 ½ hours )
It’s a very special experience, because even in the most beautiful exotic places in the world, the day is only so long..
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