Today we're traveling to South of Italy, bottom of the ‘boot’ exploring Puglia (Apulia) region. Far from the luxurious Amalfi coast, this is a truly undiscovered gem of Italy and a wonderful option for anyone who's wanting to experience a taste of Italy, without breaking the bank.
I travelled to Puglia in May, 2019 and wasn't so lucky with warm temperatures, but the sunshine still spoiled us everyday and nothing will hold me back from enjoying a cold sweet scoop of Italian Gelato.
They are not rushing; they are neither hiding nor feel ashamed – the windows are wide open. The conversations are loud. Men spend their days engaged in long conversations over espresso and cigarettes, ladies are looking fabulous hanging out laundry, carefully clipping each underwear garment separately on the rope outside their window.
There is a gelato shop on every corner and lunch is always served with wine, not water. Italians invented the term ‘La Dolce Vita’ and they are embracing it every day of their lives.
Italy is divided into 20 regions – each have different traditions, energy, different cuisine. You can go to Italy two, three, four times and still not be satisfied- every city is like a bite of delicious pistachio éclair, and every region has a character.
Let's explore Puglia!
Bari is the capital from where the journey begins.
Rent a car, ideally. The traffic is a little bit mad, but it’s a reflection of Italian culture- no strict boundaries, making their own rules as they go. Depending on your experience, skills and patience, driving might require some adjustments, but there is no better way to embrace the culture than to blend in it. Don’t lose your mind over it.
If you weren’t that keen on getting driver’s license back in the day, then train will take you from one place to the other.
Good train lines are running through the country and Puglia is no exception.
First stop, only 30km away from the busy and hectic Bari is Polignano a Mare– a seaside town on Italy’s southern Adriatic coast where limestone cliffs trace the border between the land and the turquoise sea.
It is famous for Lama Monachile beach which you’ve probably seen on countless Instagram accounts as one of those amazing places in Italy! It’s very charming in that Italian way – small, crowded, wrapped up by magnificent rocky cliffs, the turquoise blue water welcoming everyone who drives, or walks pass the Romanian bridge that provides
an unforgettable view of the bay.
It takes maybe an hour to get through the car-rental paperwork and hectic traffic (add another hour if you are travelling with a check-in bag!!) before you reach this location and
it’s a ‘pinch-me’ moment. You are in Italy!
Polignano a Mare is a good place to spend a night, enjoy a relaxing stroll through the old town and get your first taste of the Italian life and, of course food.
There is an exceptional sea-food café, Pescaria, that used to be a street-stall, now restaurant offering wide variety of fresh sea-food dishes. With the ever-growing demand, of course, vegetarian options are also available. Small sharing platters, bruschetta, pasta, or a whole cooked fish- grab a glass of wine, order from the counter and sit down for your first meal. Remember, the goal is to slow-down. In Italy food is not just a fuel that gives you energy so you can go further. It’s a pleasure taken seriously,
one of the core rules of “la Dolce vita” living.
If you are new to this, it might be difficult, you might find yourself slightly anxious, but ease in- have another glass of wine, leave your phone on airplane mode and let the food fill your soul. In Italy it’s never about how much you get down but how you do it, and locals use pleasure as their scale of success. That applies to every aspect of their lives.
After your first meal, get lost in the streets of Polignano a Mare and don’t wait until your stomach starts rumbling. Stop at one of the gelato places and enjoy
a generous serving of pistachio gelato.
Maybe there is something specific you wanted to see, based on your guide-book recommendation, maybe not.. Aimlessly stroll around the town as the hours go by and maybe that notion of having ‘no purpose’ exhausts you so much that you might want to have another scoop or two of creamy, sweet gelato.
Have a good night’s sleep and prepare yourself for another day of sweet living.
Me and my mum are continuing our tour along the Adriatic coast, but if you are planning this trip with your ‘significant other’ you might want to stay here for another night...
Grotta Palazzese is a restaurant hidden within an ancient cave with spectacular terrace overlooking the water, apparently hosting dinners and parties since 1700s. It seems like one of those unforgettable locations where you stare into each other’s eyes through the candle-lit light, sipping the finest Italian wine and enjoying refined cuisine, declaring your love to each other. Anniversary, proposal, just a moment to remember forever. There’s no price tag that’s too high for a night that you’ll always remember with the biggest smile on your face..
Next stop- Monopoli (from Greek meaning unique city).
Once a thriving port, it still harbors fishing boats as it has done for hundreds of years.
We only spent a couple of hours here in the early hours of the morning.
The streets of old town were quiet and empty and I was lost for words. Another small gem that is just briefly mentioned on your tour-books.. I sat on the stairs on one of the medieval churches and observed in silence the sound of distant foot-steps approaching and disappearing once again..
Enjoy an afternoon espresso and gelato before you get back on the road for
a 30min drive in-land.
Next stop – Alberobello.
Alberobello is known for its Trulli homes, a traditional whitewashed dry-stone hut
with a corbelled roof.
It’s part of the UNESCO World heritage site and so, of course, a must see!
From a distance, it’s an unusual sight to see- hundreds of these cone-shaped roofs densely lined up side by side.
Up close, walking the narrow streets between the Trulli houses, having a quick peek inside, and trying to imagine how people once lived here, it’s a strange feeling – rather than medieval Italian town, it seems like a perfectly curated set from The Smurf cartoons..
A couple of hours is enough to explore this town.
Get your photos, your souvenirs and it’s time to get back on the road.
Are you enjoying our tour so far??
We still have two very exciting locations to discover in this beautiful region of Italy!!!
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